10-08 Santiago 10-09 Hanga Roa 10-10 Ahu Tahai 10-11 Tonga Riki 10-12 Anakena 10-13 Orongo 10-14 Puna Pau 10-15 Goodbye Rapa Nui 10-16 Santiago

I like to undertake a couple of big trips each year, usually international, and for the past six months or so people had been asking me, "Bill, what's your next trip?" "Easter Island," I'd reply, and almost always the response would be either "Where?" or "Why?" Now I like to be nice, but I figure if you have to explain something like this there's not much need to get too involved in an apologia. If you have a curious mind and you're up for an adventure, you surely understand. If not, well, can I interest you in a week in Gatlinburg?

Now it turns out that Easter Island, or Rapa Nui as the cognoscenti call it, is marvelously fascinating place. Apart from being located about as far from any other landmass as you can get on this planet, it has a history straight out of mythology, complete with mystery, horror, and even some magic thrown in. It's a hardscrabble little rock in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, almost devoid of natural resources, arable land, or native plants and animals. In fact, it has so little to recommend it that in the glory days of exploration no western power wanted it. It was left to Chile to look around and realize all the big powers were gobbling up land and they hadn't claimed anything, so, "Oh look! Easter Island! We'll take that." 

So where is this place exactly? See that little red pin out there in the middle of the Pacific Ocean? That's Easter Island. You can't get there easily by ship as it's surrounded by rugged volcanic rocks which means there is no harbor. That's a fact the captains of many a shipwrecked sailing vessel have come to realize too late over the centuries. The only practical way to get there these days is by airplane and there's only one five-hour flight a day from Santiago, Chile. Easter Island is nicely isolated from the rest of the world, a fact the native inhabitants, the Rapanui, aren't too concerned about. Of course they are happy to sell trinkets to the tourists, but don't even think about building high-rise resorts on their breathtaking shoreline. Go away and leave us alone; we don't need your money.

And what is Easter Island best known for? Basically one main thing: enigmatic statues like this one. They're called "moai" and they can be found almost all over the island. Weird-looking, right? So what are they supposed to represent? Actually it turns out nobody knows for sure. There's plenty of speculation surrounding them, though. 

Wikipedia says: "Many archaeologists suggest that the statues were symbols of authority and power, both religious and political. However, they were not only symbols. To the people who erected and used them, they were actual repositories of sacred spirit. Carved stone and wooden objects in ancient Polynesian religions, when properly fashioned and ritually prepared, were believed to be charged by a magical spiritual essence called mana. Archaeologists believe that the statues were a representation of the ancient Polynesians' ancestors. The moai statues face away from the ocean and towards the villages as if to watch over the people."

But how did the moai get from the quarry where they were carved all the way down to the seashore? And why did the Rapanui stop carving them? And why the empty eye sockets? If this website doesn't give you enough to satisfy your curiosity, I highly recommend a book I read before the trip: The Statues that Walked. This impeccably researched book indisputably has all the answers. Maybe. Possibly. According to the authors, anyway. And if you want a briefer summary of stories from Rapa Nui, including testimony from islanders who were born before 1850 -- before the ancient Rapa Nui culture was destroyed -- have a look at this fascinating website from st0ries.

Just for reference, here's a timeline of Rapa Nui history. All dates are CE and several, such as the date of first arrival, are subject to heated argument.

1200 Initial colonization by Polynesians
1300 Date of the oldest Moai statues
1300s-1650 Gradual intensification of horticultural land use
1280-1495 First genetic evidence on island for contact with South America
1400 Rock gardens first in use
1550-1650 Highest population levels and most levels of rock gardening
1650 Stone quarrying stops
1650-1690 Peak in agricultural land use
1700 Deforestation completed
1722 Dutch land on Easter Island, bringing diseases. Pop. 4,000 est.
1860s Jesuit missionaries arrive
1860s Abduction and enslavement of people by Peruvian traders
1877 Census shows only 110 people descended from the original colonists left
1888 Rapa Nui annexed by Chile
1903-1953 Entire island used extensively to raise sheep; people moved into the only town
1953 Easter Island made a Chilean National Park
1960s First commercial airplanes land on the island
2013 Tourism levels of about 70,000 people visit annually

Of all the tours I've taken over the years I've found the ones I've enjoyed most are conducted by a company called Road Scholar. This tour is their Easter Island: The Majesty and Mystery of Rapa Nui excursion and as far as I'm concerned it's a jewel of planning and execution. The tour guides were outstanding -- knowledgeable, competent and engaging -- and the itinerary, including accommodations and meals, was impeccable. I think I can speak for all the other Road Scholars on this trip when I say we had a marvelous time and learned a lot. I mean, just look at us below. We may be underdressed while standing in a cold, wet wind atop an extinct volcano, but are we happy adventurers or what?

Now click on the links above and join us as we explore Easter Island.

billanderson601@yahoo.com