
 
 
One of my friends at the office, George Price, once lived in London, and in fact 
was born in Paris.  When he heard that I would be visiting both places, he 
very kindly provided some helpful suggestions for this tourist -- where to 
exchange money, how much to tip, where to eat, and best of all, where I could 
find some interesting places I hadn't visited before.  When I told George I 
was planning to re-visit the "Perfect London Walk," he suggested I might also 
want to try his favorite walk -- a stroll along Regent's Canal from Little Venice, 
past Regent's Park, and on to Camden Town.  Sounded good to me.

And in fact, this walk is even mentioned as an also-ran in 
Roger Ebert's book.  For good reason, actually -- this is a part of London 
I'd not have guessed existed.
 

So what exactly is this place all about?  It seems that in the 1800's 
England was crisscrossed by miles and miles of canal waterways that were used 
for commerce.  The canals and the locks were narrow, though, so the boats 
that traveled the waterways came to be known as "narrowboats."  Here's what 
Wikipedia, the online encyclopedia, says about it:
Due to reasons of economy and constraints upon 18th century engineering 
technology, the early canals were built to a narrow width. The standard 
dimension of
canal locks 
introduced by Brindley in 1766 were 72 feet 7 inches (22.1 metres) long by 7 
feet 6 inches (2.3 metres) wide. This limited the size of the boats (which came 
to be called 
narrowboats), 
and thus limited the quantity of the cargo they could carry to around 30 tonnes. 
You can read the entire article here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_the_British_canal_system
Wikipedia also talks about Regent's Canal, which passes through Little 
Venice:
	
		
			
				First proposed by
				
				Thomas Homer in 1802 as a link from the Paddington arm of 
				the then
				
				Grand Junction Canal (opened in 1801) with the River
				
				Thames at
				
				Limehouse, it was built during the early
				
				19th century after an Act of Parliament was passed in
				
1812. 
				Noted
				
				architect and town planner
				
				John Nash was a director of the company; in
				
1811 
				he had produced a master plan for the
				
				Prince Regent to redevelop a large area of central north 
				London – as a result, the Regent’s Canal was included in the 
				scheme, running for part of its distance along the northern edge 
				of
				
				Regent's Park.
As with many Nash projects, the detailed 
				design was passed to one of his assistants, in this case
				
				James Morgan – appointed chief engineer of the canal 
				company. Work began on
				
				14 October
				1812. 
				The first section, Paddington to
				
				Camden Town, opened in
				1816 
				and included a 251m long
				
				tunnel under Maida Hill east of an area now known as 'Little 
				Venice' and a much shorter tunnel, just 48m long, under 
				Lisson Grove. The Camden to Limehouse section, including the 
				886m long
				
				Islington tunnel and the Regent's Canal Dock (used to 
				transfer cargo from sea-faring vessels to canal barges – today 
				known as Limehouse Basin), opened four years later on
				
				1 August
				1820. 
				Various intermediate basins were also constructed (eg: at 
				Regent's Park, Battlebridge Basin (close to London's King's 
				Cross station) and City Road Basin).
				In 1929 the companies of the Regent's Canal, the Grand 
				Junction Canal, and the Warwick Canals merged to become the
				
				Grand Union Canal Company. It was nationalised in
				1948. 
				By this time, the canal's importance for commercial traffic was 
				dwindling, and by the
				1960s 
				commercial vessels had almost ceased to operate – railway and 
				road transport taking over.
 
		 
	 
 

Now that the history lecture is over, let's have a look at 
Regent's Canal itself, and some of those beautiful narrowboats.  Apparently they 
were so narrow that if a man sat in the middle of one and outstretched his arms, 
he'd span the entire width.

It's like a long marina where people live in their boats and 
keep little gardens at their docks.

It was a beautiful day for a walk.  This was Friday, July 
23, 2004.

The guidebooks said the boats were brightly colored and bore 
clever names.  

Looking back into one of the several tunnels I walked through.  
I had wondered whether I'd be walking through a bad part of town or something, 
whether there would be danger.  But in fact, there were fellow walkers all 
along the way, and the neighborhoods through which I walked were very nice 
indeed.

See what I mean?  A mansion on a hill.

And another.  This one with Greek columns.  Can't 
get much more posh than this place.

Now we've arrived at the London Zoo.  The canal passes right through the 
Zoo, but it's separated from the Zoo proper by fences.  Still, people 
strolling along the canal can see a few of the animals.  Over there on the 
left are some, well, things with horns.

See that gray lump the people are watching?  It's a huge 
ugly pig with bushy hair growing on its snout.

Oh look!  A picturesque Chinese restaurant.
 

Surrounded by narrowboats. Where else but in London?

This was a peaceful scene -- that narrowboat gliding toward 
me.  

And here we are at the end of the walk -- Camden Town.  
This is Camden Locks.

Camden Town itself is a ghastly awful tourist trap, full of cheap t-shirt shops, 
souvenir stands, and druggie bazaars.  I quickly found a subway station and 
rode to Embankment to see Somerset House.
 